Marfa, Texas
Marfa, Texas, is an artsy oasis in the middle of the Chihuahuan Desert. Minimalist artist Donald Judd chose to reside here in the 70s, and with his studios and permanent installations, Judd transformed the town from an army training station into an inspiring artistic haven. This secluded small town will surprise you with its sophisticated sensibilities.
Getting To Marfa
Marfa is only rewarded to those who are willing to take the extra mile. Located about 3 hours away from El Paso, and 5 hours from San Antonio, getting to Marfa is no easy matter whatever direction you are coming from. I was flying into El Paso from NYC, with a connection in Atlanta. Being a born and raised city girl, I do not know how to drive (I know, I know, it is on my to do list), so the plan was to meet up with my co-worker in El Paso and have her drive the 3-4 hours to Marfa. Instead, what ended up happening was I had the world’s biggest brain f… and missed my connection in Atlanta, entirely due to my own stupidity. I ended up stuck in Atlanta airport for 8 hours, scrambling to find another flight and another ride to Marfa. Since I could not expect my co-worker to wait 8 hours for me, I tried calling every chauffer company in El Paso, upon which I was either getting a quote of $1000 or a straight up NO due to the hours I needed to travel. I finally found American Shuttle, which was willing to take me to Marfa at 9pm and was only charging $350. A miracle! My driver turned out to be an older lady, which was surprising and comforting at the same time. I hopped onto the shotgun seat, and begun my 4-hour journey with a stranger. I wish I could I remember her name. She told me her story coming to America from Mexico without knowing any English, and how she had raised two successful daughters and is now pursuing a degree in ecology. She taught me the name of each plant she could think of as we drove through the endless desert in the middle of the night. With her company and all the stars aligned, I arrived in Marfa at 2 am. For the time it took me to get to Marfa I could have gone to Europe and back. Point being, you must rent a car from El Paso to get to Marfa, and I really need to learn how to drive, but even then, Marfa is still quite the trek.
Accommodations
There are several great choices for places to stay at in Marfa. We stayed at Thunderbird Inn, which was really cozy and clean, with a lovely cactus courtyard. Another option, Hotel St. George, is smack in the center of the town. Even if you are not staying here, it's a lovely place for dinner and drinks, and the Marfa Book Company is located here as well. Hotel Paisano is a historic hotel in the Mission Revival style, making it a sight to see in itself. For something more novel, you could stay at El Cosmico, which is a campground that offers vintage trailers, yurts, and tepees to enjoy the starry desert nights. Scroll to the bottom for a map of Marfa with all the locations listed.
Sights
The most popular sights in Marfa are the Judd Foundation and the Chinati Foundation. The Judd Foundation takes you to Donald Judd’s studio and residence, where you’ll get some insights into how he worked and how he got his inspirations. The Chinati Foundation is a contemporary art museum founded by Donald Judd on the grounds of an old military base. The museum showcases sight-specific permanent installations by a handful of contemporary artists. You need to join a tour for both sights, so book your tickets in advance. There is also the famous Prada Marfa, a non-functioning Prada store located 30 minutes outside of Marfa. It’s actually an installation that fits in perfectly among Marfa’s collection of site-specific works, and which needs to be seen in context with its surroundings. The town is also filled with galleries, including Ballroom Marfa, Rule Gallery, and Inde/ Jacobs. All exhibit a sophisticated selection of works that are not typical to a small town. For more details on the art in Marfa, see my post Marfa: An Artistic Expression.
Shopping
Boutiques in Marfa are highly curated. Among our favorites were Freda, Marfa Brands, Mano, The Wrong Store, and Mirth, each speaking to a distinct life style and attitude. For something clearly unique to Marfa, visit the Cobra Rock Boot Company, which sells western boots hand made in Marfa. But my personal love was Moonlight Gemstones, a little shop selling a wide variety of crystals and gems for what seemed to me like really reasonable prices. I went a little rock crazy here and bought a whole bunch of little gems for my room. #Marfave!
Eating
We visited Do Your Thing Coffee almost every morning for our black liquid fix. Do Your Thing is a coffee shop with an attitude just like its name. Set in a lumberyard, it serves specialty coffee, organic porridge, and a variety of fresh baked goods. Another amazing breakfast spot is Marfa Burrito. Everything you consume here is hand made in the kitchen by Romona Tejada and her friends. This place had honestly one of the best burritos I have ever eaten; I was tempted to buy several for the road. Once visited by Beyoncé, Food Shark serves Mediterranean bites with a Texan twist by day, and transforms into the Late Night Museum of Electronic Wonders & Grilled Cheese by night, featuring Jetsons-style electronics and serving amazing grilled cheeses. Eat inside the vintage bus or by the fireplace while watching old music videos from a projector. For a nicer sit-down dinner, my favorite spot was Capri, which serves food with ingredients inspired by the region. Oddly though, despite being surrounded by native plants, there were moments at Capri when I feel like I had never left Brooklyn.
Tips for Marfa
1. Book your visit to the Chinati Foundation and Judd Foundation early, both require guided tours.
2. You will pass by a boarder check point on your way from El Paso to Marfa, so make sure to have your identification.
3. There are limited ATMs in town, and some places like Food Shark are cash only, so get cash before you arrive.
4. Being in the high desert, temperatures can drop drastically at night, so dress in layers.
5. The sun can be brutal in the desert, so SPF and moisturizer are a must!